Wednesday, August 24, 2016

Day 1 - Yaks

Disclaimer: Day one is really three days, as we lost 12 ½ hours in time changes, our travel started Wednesday afternoon and ended Friday morning.

Airplane travel has it highs and lows.  The day started simply enough, Spokane to Seattle was what every tiny plane trip is.  Spokane to Dubai is where the party starts.  I’ll start by saying that up until this week, my flying experience was exclusively with Southwest Airlines.  The idea of assigned seats, in flight meals, and weight limits on bags is a foreign concept to me. 

The hijinx began in the church parking lot where we gathered to pray and distribute some supplies we were taking along.  I have left plenty of room in my bag for them, so I load up.  I then learn that international travel tends to be pretty tough on bags, and since mine is pretty worn already, I’m advised to pack in into someone else’s spare luggage.  I comply, but then it’s over 50 pounds, which apparently gains you a $75 charge on checked bags.  Then came the event of several folks pulling random things out of bags and tossing them into the collective spare.  Underwear, socks, t-shirts, toothbrushes, and post-it notes belonging to several different people then converge in a single bag, and we take off for the airport with bags under 50 pounds. 

There were a few new things to me on the Seattle flight, for instance boarding the plane by actually walking out onto the runway and having an assigned seat, but just like Southwest, I’m sitting on the back wing, so it’s really not worth mentioning.  The real fun begins on the international flight.  Seattle to Dubai, fourteen hours and twenty minutes of excitement becoming fear. 

I flew on Emirates Airlines, and that was a treat.  The stewardesses have an outfit that is very abnormal to the North American eye, so the difference is apparent from the moment you get on board.  Then walking through the plane kind of blew my mind.  I’m used to tiny little planes with two seats on either side of a single aisle.  Here we have three seats, aisle, five seats, aisle, and then three more seats.  When I looked down the plane for the first time my thought was that the entire plane I’m used to could fit inside this section.  Then there were three more just like it.  This plane was so much larger than I was used to that it took a few moments for my mind to comprehend that flight could still be possible. 

I found my seat, and it was terribly uncomfortable, there was a support cushion on the upper back that was clearly designed for shorter people, taunting me with calls of “you’re not sleeping one bit on this flight” the moment I sat down.  Of course I found out later that this was adjustable and could be made to go higher.  And by later I mean I found out on the van ride to the hotel in New Delhi. 

However, as uncomfortable as I was, I became excited very quickly.  The screen in front of me was running trailers for Captain America: Civil War, which was free to watch, along with several other movies, TV, and music.  That was also a new experience for me.  I am used to those screens being used to try tricking me into spending a month’s utility bill on watching ESPN for 20 minutes.  The final chunk of excitement came when I was handed a menu for the meal.  Again, I’m used to pretzels, peanuts, and a cup of Coke passing for a meal.  This had dinner options, breakfast options, snacks, and free booze.  Also, it all looked delicious.  I was also appreciative of the fact that the music playing through the speakers pre-flight consisted of Let’s Fly Away, I Believe I Can Fly, I’m Like a Bird, and Rocket Man.  It was missing Leavin’ on a Jet Plane, but otherwise it was perfect.

Eventually, that excitement faded.  Dinner did not agree with my stomach nearly as much as my taste buds.  The back pain started to sink in from my mysteriously adjustable seat, the cabin pressure gave me an expected headache, my legs were feeling the effects of being on a six foot one person, and the dinner and my stomach were playing rugby against each other. 

For the first time in several years, I threw up.  I would not make it several years before I threw up again.  And again.  And again.  Fittingly, for travel I had worn one of my favorite souvenir T-shirts from the restaurant where I had the best burger of my life: “Yaks.”  So it turned out I was wearing a premonition and ironic character introduction for our flight attendants at the same time.  With my stomach clear and my body aching, I sat back down in my seat, comforted with the fact that the flight only had ten hours and eleven minutes left before landing. 

The nice thing about a fourteen hour flight though is that you run out of excuses not to have a long Bible study pretty quickly.  I cracked the good word open and lost myself in it for several hours and it was greatly refreshing, with the occasional opportunity to just turn my head and soak in the northern boundaries of Canada for a great visual of virtually uninhabited mountains and seas. I spent a long time in prayer as well, preparing my heart for a world unlike any I had ever experienced before and the trials that were sure to come.  My greatest concern, especially once the food poisoning set in, was that I simply wasn’t going to thrive at all on the trip.  I’m not what most describe as a tough individual.  I’m an officer worker who doesn’t do well in the sun.  It’s very easy for me to become cynical and become displeased with everything around me. 

Obviously, that’s a bad attitude to have when you’re heading into sweltering heat and humidity where all the bathrooms are sketchy and the insects are numerous.  I spent a lot of time just asking God to keep my attitude positive even when the circumstances were hard. 

We landed in Dubai, and I got to be a minority for the first time in my life.  I knew that in India my US dollars would go very far, so I was excited to see if I could pick up some cheap souvenirs from the airport there.  The answer is no.  No I could not.  A little metal tower about the size of my middle finger was USD $65.  So I gave up on the Dubai souvenir experience quickly. 

The next leg of the flying was uneventful.  My dinner stayed down, the music still didn’t have Leavin’ on a Jet Plane, and I watched the aforementioned Civil War.  Anxiousness was setting in.  I just wanted to get to India.

We left the airport at about 3:30 AM, so I didn’t experience the mass of humanity right away.  Initially I was surprised how American it felt.  The humidity was immediately powerful.  The moment we left the airport doors the sweat started to pour, but I’d experienced that in Miami before.  Most people were speaking a different language than me, but I’d experienced that in Miami before.  Virtually every sign was in English, which is more than Miami can say, and the litter and the filth wasn’t much worse than Spokane.  I knew I was seeing the nice part of town, but on the initial ride to the hotel, Delhi just felt like Miami without skyscrapers.

The hotel itself is a different feel.  The humidity outside is rough, but when you enter a building in an area without AC, it’s even worse.  When I stepped into the hotel lobby, my glasses fogged over.  That’s not a joke, it literally happened.  After a full day there, I still struggle when I’m in the hallways and lobby.  The air is thick, and it smells slightly of smoked bacon, although I’ve yet to see any actual bacon.

There was no real agenda for our first day there, the programs we were helping with started a day later, so we spent the first day sightseeing.  Once you get out after sunlight, the mass of people hits you in full effect.  There is no stretch of road, shoulder, or sidewalk not filled.  Bikes, scooters, foot traffic, cars, buses, they all just wander wherever they can find room to move.  We drove for an hour straight and never even hit the bad side of town, and I never saw a gap that people didn’t fill. 

The driving is as crazy as people describe it, but if I’m being honest, I absolutely love it.  People use their horns non-stop, not as aggression but to communicate to other vehicles and pedestrians.  Every vehicle just switches lanes, swerves between them, or just drives around the side whenever they feel like it.  I’m not sure the cars even have turn signals, and you know what?  It works better than American traffic.  For nearly eight hours we drove around like this, I saw no accidents and traffic never stopped.  25 million people with virtually no traffic regulations get around better this way than 500,000 do on the freeway in Spokane. 

Truly, it’s one of the most beautiful art forms I have ever seen.  The way they move and flow through the maze of machinery is far beyond anything I can ever imagine doing, it’s simply humans trusting in others to drive and walk attentively, doing whatever is needed to move forward.  There is a cultural lesson to be learned in that, people looking out for everyone is actually making it possible for everyone to actually get where they are going.  I tried to take videos, but truly no little sample taken from inside a car can come close to doing the experience justice.

My favorite sight of the day though wasn’t the driving, the people, or any temples.  It was the single sign I saw that said “no parking.”  Directly in front of it was not one, but two full rows of cars parked so tightly, that it remains a mystery to me how the cars in that first row ever expect to actually leave.  I have yet to see a tow truck, so how this issue is even attempted to be handled is beyond my reasoning.

Other day one observations include:
  • ·         Four people riding on a single moped, with no helmets, and the kid on the back going no hands just to be a boss. 
  • ·         A bus of young people staring at our van extensively, obviously because we’re a bunch of white people.
  • ·         The Bah’ai temple
  • ·         A “12th century city” kept intact as a tourist destination.
  • ·         Our taxi driver had two thumbs on his left hand.
  • ·          Being in the market is exhausting.  Every price is for barter and the street vendors follow you around constantly.  One man trying to sell a wooden cobra, I probably told no 25 times. 
  • ·         Even though my phone is set to Delhi time, it still just functions on Spokane time, so my alarm went off 12 ½ hours late. 
  • ·         The poverty is not visible in the main part of town.  I saw one or two clearly lived in shacks, but for the most part, the slums seem separate from the main town.
  • ·         There are homeless dogs just wandering everywhere and the animal lover in me really had a hard time with it.  They wander through traffic the same as everything else.
  • ·         The ants are enormous and I want nothing to do with them.
  • ·         I really love curry and butter chicken.
  • ·         The American dollar doesn’t go quite as far when you have expensive taste.

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